Types of Vietnamese silk

Các loại lụa tơ tằm Việt - Hity

Habotai plain silk fabric :

Habotai is a plain weave silk fabric with the most original structure and technique of the long-standing silk weaving technique in Vietnam and the world, usually with 2 gooses (carrying warp yarns divided into 2 upper and lower beats), called 1/1 weaving or new-style weaving, when the 2 gooses go up and down (turn the goose or flip the goose) to create an opening for the yarn for the shuttle carrying the weft yarn to weave into the fabric surface.

Plain silk loom at Dai Su factory - 2 gobs of yarn

Plain silk loom at Daisu Silk Ambassador factory - 2 go of yarn

Simulating the structure of Ambassador Silk Plain Weave

Simulates plain weave structure

Momme count and warp density determine the thickness and durability of the plain fabric. Habotai usually has 3 counts: 8mm, 10mm and 12mm (momme), with a warp density of 9600 threads.

Vietnamese Silk | Hity Sustainable Fashion

Habotai silk fabric

Because the fabric is woven with a simple structure, the surface of the fabric is smooth, even when not exposed to light, you can still see a faint image behind, but it is soft and fluttering, suitable for making scarves, pocket squares (or handkerchiefs), and sewing loose-fitting dresses and shirts.

Vietnamese Silk | Hity Sustainable Fashion

Vietnamese Silk | Hity Sustainable Fashion

Habotai silk dress from sustainable fashion brand Hity

Silk Satin

Satin silk is a satin weave fabric, woven on a loom with 12 warp threads. In the satin weaving technique, the weft thread passes over a maximum of 12 weft threads (can be 4-7-12 threads depending on the item) before being woven. On the next shuttle stroke, the shuttle carries the weft thread over a different set of warp threads.

How to Weave Ambassador Silk Satin

Diagram illustrating how a 5-thread satin weave is organized by passing over 4 warp threads before being woven.

Source of Daisu Silk Satin Weaving Method

Satin silk fabric has a tight, durable and shiny surface, the side is slightly matte. It can be said that satin silk fabric is a very good quality and luxurious fabric, very suitable for fashion products such as ao dai, towels, sleepwear, pyjamas, bedding.

Satin silk usually has 3 common weights: 16mm, 19mm and 21mm, with warp density up to 14000 threads.

Ambassador Satin Silk Fabric

Satin silk fabric

Vietnamese Silk | Hity Sustainable Fashion

Applying silk satin to evening wear from sustainable fashion brand Hity

Twill Silk

The reason it is called twill fabric is because the fabric surface has raised diagonal ribs, easily recognizable by hand and by the naked eye. Depending on the weaving structure, the momme index and the silk index determine the thickness of the raised ribs, high or low, large or small.

There are many ways to organize the cross-stitch pattern to create different types of fabric patterns, but the most common are the 1/3; 1/2; 2/2; 4/4 patterns. The cross-stitch pattern is formed when the weft is knitted over warp 1-2 and under warp 3-4, and when the shuttle returns, it brings the weft over warp 2-3 and under warp 4-5.

Characteristics of Ambassador Silk Twill Fabric

Characteristics of silk twill fabric

Twill fabric has a tight surface, so it is durable and less wrinkled. Due to the cross-ribbed surface structure, the fabric is soft and drapey, very suitable for making scarves, skirts, shirts, etc.

Twill fabric is usually available in 16mm, 19mm and 21mm weights, depending on customer needs and suitable for application to each specific fashion item.

Vietnamese Silk | Hity Sustainable Fashion

Twill silk fabric

Instructions for using silk

Silk is a 100% natural product made from silk fibers, has soft and smooth properties, scientifically proven to contain anti-allergenic substances, is very good and suitable for year-round use, providing coolness in the summer and warmth in the winter. The silk production process requires many elaborate and sophisticated manual steps, and is a 100% natural material, so silk is considered a premium product. Therefore, to preserve the natural beauty and value of silk, customers need to note some important instructions below:

Treating stains on silk

Step 1 : Mix 5ml of fruit vinegar into 10ml of warm water (depending on the size of the stain, you can mix in a ratio of 1 vinegar + 2 warm water).

Step 2 : Check if the silk item has lost color by dropping 1 drop of solution (vinegar + warm water) onto the silk item (inside the product). If the product does not lose color, perform step 3.

Step 3 : Dip the stained area into the solution or use a spray bottle to apply the solution to the stain.

Step 4 : Wait 20 minutes (depending on the level of stain, it may take longer) for the solution to dissolve or evaporate the stain, then use cotton to clean the stain.

Step 5 : Rinse quickly with cold water, rinse and dry in a well-ventilated area (avoid drying silk items directly in the sun).

Note : Do not use any detergent other than white vinegar, or alcohol mixed with warm water (purified water) to treat stains on silk. For stubborn stains from food, wine, cosmetics... you can mix the solution in a ratio of 50% vinegar + 50% warm water or 50% alcohol + 50% warm water.

Instructions for washing silk products

Step 1: Fill a basin or sink with cold water at 24 - 35 degrees Celsius. Add 5ml of shampoo or soap to the basin or sink, stir well to make the water foam.

Step 2: Submerge the silk item in the sink, stir gently so that the silk item slowly absorbs water. You can soak the silk item for 3-4 minutes, then gently squeeze it by hand.

Step 3: Rinse 3 to 4 times with cold water to clean, then lift the silk item out and shake off the water. Do not wring as this will cause the silk item to wrinkle.

Step 4: Dry in a well-ventilated place, avoid direct sunlight as it will cause the silk to dry and fade.

Note: Wash each product separately to avoid color bleeding.

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